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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.