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Looking at my reflection, I seem to have on huge shimmering pantaloons, seen only to me. Youngsters play in a water feature acting as sea nymphs, meanwhile in the next room resides a talking pea in a showcase, beside a tall mound of bedding. It represents the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s highly cherished writers. I'm visiting Odense, on the island of Funen in the southern part of Denmark, to explore Andersen’s enduring legacy in his birthplace a century and a half after his passing, and to experience a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the local museum dedicated to the storyteller, incorporating his childhood house. An expert notes that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on his fairytales. The writer’s life was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For tourists who travel to Odense seeking narrative enchantment, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of the city center, redirecting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to rethink how the city’s most famous son could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge gave the architects from Japan the renowned designers the commission, with the innovative curatorial vision at the center of the structure. The remarkable wooden museum with interlinked spiralling spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We’ve tried to create a space where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we communicate similarly to him: with humour, sarcasm and viewpoint,” explains the expert. The outdoor spaces follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for explorers and for giants, it’s designed to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he notes, an objective achieved by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with verticality, size and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

The author penned two and a half memoirs and often provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy fully; frequently the views of his friends or excerpts of letters are displayed to gently question the author’s own version of happenings. “Andersen is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” notes the representative. The result is a engaging rapid journey of the author's biography and creations, thought processes and most popular tales. It is thought-provoking and playful, for grown-ups and youngsters, with a bonus basement fantasy realm, the pretend town, for the smallest guests.

Discovering the City

Back in the real world, the small city of the municipality is picturesque, with cobbled streets and old wooden houses finished in cheerful shades. The author's presence is all around: the road indicators show the storyteller with his distinctive characteristic hat, metal shoe prints offer a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Every August this dedication peaks with the yearly Andersen celebration, which marks the author’s legacy through creativity, performance, stage shows and melodies.

During my visit, the multi-day event had numerous performances, most of which were complimentary. While visiting Odense, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I listen to empowering poetry and observe an amazing nocturnal display including acrobatic dancers coming down from the municipal structure and hanging from a mechanical arm. Still to come during the season are talks, hands-on activities and, expanding the storytelling legacy beyond Andersen, the city’s annual wonder event.

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a fortress, and the island contains over a hundred manors and estates throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like much of the country, bicycles are the ideal method to navigate in the city and a “cycling highway” meanders through the city centre. Departing from Hotel Odeon, I pedal to the complimentary waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a circuit around Stige Island, a compact territory linked by a road to the larger island. City residents picnic here in the evening, or appreciate a peaceful time catching fish, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

Returning to Odense, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the menu is inspired by Andersen themes and tales. The verse Denmark, My Native Land is highlighted during my meal, and owner the host reads extracts, presented in English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters repeated often in my visit, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it appears narrating is constantly available here.

Castle Explorations

All good fairytale destinations deserve a palace, and Fyn contains 123 castles and manor houses across the island. Traveling briefly from Odense, I visit Egeskov Palace, the region's most intact Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are available for tours, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his wife, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I wonder if she might sense a small legume through a pile of {mattresses